In fact, independent labs prove Arag Alive cycles your aquarium days faster than other brands.Don't compromise, Arag Alive has it all. It beings to cycle your aquarium instantly. Arag Alive is engineered to suppress "new tank syndrome" and compress the ammonia cycle. Only 1/2 of the numbers of items received. Arag Alive contains millions of bacteria per pound specially engineered for aggressive waste reduction in closed systems like your aquarium. Arag Alive helps maintain a proper pH for the life of your aquarium without the constant addition of chemicals, and creates a biological balance to discourage nuisance algae. ![]() Grain size 0.1 - 1.0 mm.īeauty and Brains. Also an excellent choice for the cultivation of seagrasses (true plants) such as Thallasia species. The most friendly to bottom dwelling creatures its fine grain size can pass easily through the gills of gobys and other sand sifting organisms. Thicker sand beds will almost certainly require siphoning.Bahamas Oolite - This oolitic sand is ideal for shallower beds, allowing denitrification in as little as 1” depth. Starfish, sand sifting fish, crabs, and some snails may be enough for thinner sand beds. A clean up crew geared toward this job is a good choice. Planning how to keep your sand bed clean is the last key factor.We’ve included a sand bed calculator at the bottom of this post to help you figure out how much sand you’ll need once you decide how thick you want to go. Thin sand beds tend to be easier to maintain while thick ones will not end up with bare spots but will likely require regular siphoning out of debris. Usually 1/2″ to 2″ is the typical range of thin to thick. How much sand to buy is also a big question to consider.While not something that would prevent me from buying any particular type of sand it’s worth bearing in mind and planning to be patient for a few days. The more natural types of live sand will tank a while to settle in a new tank.Black Hawaiian sand can look stunning but it’s limited to a somewhat larger grain so keep that in mind. In general you’ll find variations on traditional looking sand and black. This is really all down to personal preference. Color is the next feature to consider.This will prevent bare spots in high flow areas but still have plenty of fine grain sand for sand sifters. You use a mixed formulation or buy a bag of each and put larger grain in first then top it with fine grain. The larger grains will stay put but but your sand sifting fish won’t be happy. The thinner your sand bed, the more likely flow will create bare spots. Especially if you don’t intend to have thicker layer of sand. If you have a higher flow tank you’ll likely want to have a larger grain size so that it doesn’t blow around as much. ![]() Grain size less than 1.0mm is great for your sand sifting fish. What are the things to consider when buying live sand for your reef tank? There isn’t much cost difference between dry and live sand so there isn’t a reason to not use it if you’re going to use some kind of sand in your aquariumīe sure not to discard the liquid that came with your live sand and keep an eye out for additional packets of clarifiers you can add to your tank that are often included. ![]() You’re not going to get hitchhikers from live sand and the bacteria can migrate to your rock quickly. We’re not going to dive into cycling a new tank in this article but live sand contains the same beneficial bacteria that live rock does. One of the great things about live sand is that it’s great for jump starting your aquarium if you’re starting with dead rock. If “live” sand isn’t really necessary, why should we use live sand for saltwater aquariums? Why not just use dry sand? I’m all for simplifying tank maintenance but I’m personally not sure I can go all in on a bare bottom just yet. Without the sand bed fish waste and excess food break down into the water column prior to decomposition and are largely removed by a protein skimmer. There’s no way around having to clean a sand bed on occasion. Bare Bottom Tanksīare bottom tanks are becoming popular since they make maintaining your aquarium much easier. Reactors, refugiums, algae scrubbers, protein skimmers, and bio media are all additional methods of dealing with left over fish food and fish waste. While many do still utilize deep sand beds, there really are better ways to control nitrate and phosphate. Unfortunately any sand in your reef tank will eventually accumulate detritus that will need to be cleaned out before it begins generating the unwanted byproducts of the decomposition process. The logic behind this was to create a low oxygen zone for bacteria to live forcing the bacteria to strip Nitrate of it’s Oxygen molecule and releasing the byproduct as nitrogen gas. In the not too distant past it was very common for reefers to have deep sand beds in their aquariums.
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